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French Fancy The interiors of Brasserie St Jacques are all light and airy, with a golden-yellow hue that filters out into the street and invites you in, with a remarkably high ceiling that draws on the days of Marie Antoinette, retro banquettes installed against walls, oversized mirrors and gorgeous green plants spilling out over their pots. It's all very 18th century, and we loved every square-inch of it. The menu comprises all that you'd expect from an upscale French restaurant in one of the capital's plushest neighbourhoods, with signature starters such as terrine de foie gras and escargots, and mouthwatering mains including steak tartare and coq au vin. We went for king scallops, pea puree and crispy bacon - lipsmackingly good - followed by rabbit leg roasted with light spice lentils, which had tender chunks of meat rolling about on our tongue. This was washed down by a rich red wine selected by charismatic wine expert Richard Weiss. While we wouldn't normally have ordered a dessert, we felt it was our duty to try at least one of the sweet offerings on the menu; we went for the crème brûlée, which was perfectly light and frothy beneath a crispy, sugary top. The service was excellent, with a smartly-dressed waiter moving through the grand room with the utmost discretion. While prices are never going to be cheap in St James, Brasserie St Jacques does its best to keep the numbers sensible; starters begin at ₤7.50 and main courses start at ₤16.50. No, it's not cheap, but it's not as expensive as St James gets, either - and you are paying for Michelin-worthy fare, dazzling surroundings, and, of course, the chance to rub shoulders with some seriously good company. In short, Brasserie St Jacques is the perfect choice for a mid-week treat - think of it as an upscale Cafe Rouge, if you will. Somewhere you can dress up for. The crowd on the day of our review was very St James; a family of four sat in one corner, the daughter decked-out in designer threads, the mother in her twin-set and pearls, and the father staring intensely at his daughter's new boyfriend, who was squirming slightly in his seat while playing with his pan-fried calf's liver and twizzling his tie; beside us was a longer table of close friends, toasting with Champagne flutes and roaring with laughter like only the residents of St James know how; and by the bar sat a couple, clearly on the third or fourth date and getting to know each other rather more intimately over a perfectly-formed platter of Irish oysters. If that didn't get them into bed once they got home that night, we don't know what would! Owned and run by head chef Laurence Glayzer, Gunpowder is proud to report that Brasserie St Jacques checks all the right boxes. Food. Check. Drink. Check. Interiors. Check. The cheque itself? Reasonable. We, for one, can't wait to return. www.brasseriestjacques.co.uk / Images: Brasserie St Jacques 
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