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Into The Blue Located between Lisbon and the Algarve, the Alentejo makes up a third of Portugal, yet hardly anyone other than the locals seem to know it's there. Olive groves and vineyards stretch for miles, dotted occasionally with tiny white-washed villages guarded by medieval castles. One of the biggest draws is the regional capital, Évora, where you'll find the Hotel M'Ar de Ar Aqueduto. This ancient white-washed building boasts glorious views of the Roman aqueduct it takes its name from. A multitude of spacious terraces and gardens offer plenty of outdoor spaces where you can sip cocktails or local wines before setting out to visit highlights such as the cathedral and the Roman Temple, both of which are within easy walking distance. If it feels like too much effort to walk back to the hotel for dinner, dip into Restaurant Fialho for plates of thinly-sliced cured ham, lamb stew or sumptuous traditional desserts made from sugar, ground almonds and egg yolks. When you've eaten your fill, catch a ride back to Hotel M'Ar de Ar Aqueduto with one of the town's romantic horse-drawn carriages to end your day in style. If you prefer a hotel deeper into the countryside, head to Hotel Convento do Espinheiro and indulge yourself with a treatment at the Diana Spa, or simply unwind in the sauna and steam rooms. Set just down the road from Évora, this huge former convent has a bridal suite to die for, complete with a vast red-tiled roof terrace from where you can admire views over cork forests, vineyards and citrus groves. The hotel even has its own chapel, plus the fabulous Divinus Restaurant, which is located in the convent's wine cellar. Here you can sample wines produced by Alentejo wineries such as Carmim, as well as tucking into the local gastronomy. Carry on southeast from here and you'll reach the immense man-made Alqueva Lake. Until Alqueva Dam was completed in 2002, this was just another valley rolling across the Portuguese countryside. Since the land was flooded it's become a leisure park for anyone who enjoys sailing, kayaking, swimming or fishing. You can hire houseboats from Amiera Marina for a more quirky accommodation option and slowly motor your way to villages and towns such as medieval Monsaraz, where you can stroll through streets laden with bougainvillea to the castle that once kept its inhabitants safe from the marauding Spanish. Now the castle is a rather dilapidated, if beautiful, ruin, but fortunately the Spaniards are mostly friendly these days. If you fancy a bit of a hike, you can walk from here to Horta da Moura, a rural hotel that's a popular place for lavish weddings. There are also tennis courts, horse stables, bike hire and cute bungalows that make it an ideal pace to escape to. The hotel is surrounded by fields and forests with trails you can explore to your heart's content before heading back to enjoy a meal by the open fire in winter and on the terrace in summer. Settle into the rhythm of gentle days of discovery, and you may find yourself never wanting to leave. Judy Darley is a freelance writer and editor specialising in travel, gastronomy and culture. She is the founder and editor of EssentialWriters.com, a website for writers, by writers. Hotels: www.mardearhotels.com www.conventodoespinheiro.com www.amieiramarina.com www.hortadamoura.pt  |
