Rating: GGGGG
As one of the city's hottest destination eateries with sweeping views out over the Thames and some of the most stylish interiors in the city, we just had to check it out. Fortunately, we weren't disappointed. Arriving for our 8pm reservation on a Wednesday night, we entered through a discreet side entrance and ascended a nightclub-style staircase. Inside, the huge dining room is flooded with light - opened up on one side by sleek double-height windows - and is characteristed by chic 1950s style, with beige chairs and oversized lighting fixtures. There's something airport-like about the whole affair, but for some reason or another it works. On the night of our review, it was buzzing with boisterous conversation; sharp-suited business execs sipped cocktails at the central bar; families congregated around tables crammed with food and wine; and waiters in kitsch uniforms flitted between the organised chaos with expert ease. Critics often complain about the noise levels, but here at Gunpowder we like a bit of atmosphere. There was something almost theatrical about the room - fitting, perhaps, considering its location.
Naturally, Gunpowder was given the best seats in the house; a solitary table parked slighty away from the hustle and bustle of the room, and positioned directly in front of Skylon's glass fronting. The view, it has to be said, was pretty damn spectacular, with the Thames shimmering in the amber-hued light of dusk. The menu itself is headed up by executive chef Helena Puolakka, who moved from Harvey Nichols' Fifth Floor restaurant in 2007. Since that time, she has been pulling in foodies from across the capital desperate to try a slice of her Euro-Brit pie. The starters are based heavily around salads - not ideal if you're not a salad person - but there are enough options for even the most carniverous diner to choose from. Gunpowder was lucky enough to try two; the first was an Endive Salad, comprising mouthwateringly good Colston Basset stilton and walnuts, while the second was made up of moist chunks of chicken and tender pieces of ham-hock mixed in with a zesty combination of baby spinach, sugar snaps and alfalfa grain mustard dressing. The main courses are more varied and range from grilled steaks to fresh fish, such as bream, cod and halibut. We opted for the Caramelised Shoulder of Lamb, with Baked Red Onion and Fragrant Cous-Cous. It was sheer perfection. We also tried the Confit Leg of Duck , served with Warm Put Lentils Salad and Sherry Vinaigrette. The duck could have been a touch pinker on the inside, but it slipped down the gullet a treat nevertheless. The wine we chose to wash it all down with? An extremely summery 2007 Gerard Bertrand rose from Languedoe, France. For dessert, we went with the simple - but extremely satisfying - Chocolate Brownie.
It doesn't have to be a long, drawn-out meal at Skylon, either; those pressed for time can enjoy the Bar Food menu, or simply a quick cocktail or glass of wine at the bar. And that's what makes Skylon so great; offering fabulous food and an electric atmosphere, you can take what you want from it and leave what you don't. If you're after a long, laguid lunch or decadent dinner, then it's yours for the taking. If, however, you just want to pop in for a quick drink to soak it all up pre- or post-show, then you're free to do so. If ever a restaurant deserves to be this busy, then it's Skylon.
www.skylonrestaurant.co.uk / Images: Skylon
