Rating: GGGGG
Tucked away on Great Titchfield Street beneath a concrete tower of media and fashion businesses, Vanilla hasn't had the greatest of starts. It originally opened in 2007 under a different chef, and critics left the building almost as quickly as they came. Tracey MacLeod from The Independent was particularly fierce; "Vanilla just doesn't feel like a restaurant, and for all its black and white chic, it will never be more than a pale imitation. Vanilla indeed." Oozing more venom than an anaconda strangling a mouse, is it hardly surprising that the old chef fled, tail firmly between his legs, never to be seen again? As with everything, however, Vanilla deserved a second chance, which is why we gladly accepted when an invitation to review this sumptuous, subterranean showstopper appeared in our inbox.

The first thing you notice about Vanilla is the decor, which is the brainchild of General Manager Matthieu Destandau; taking its design cues from the hedonistic haunts found along Miami's South Beach, the interior is all about sexy blue LED mood lighting, over-the-top damask patterns, sleek mirrored walls, drop-dead gorgeous drapes and dazzling crystal chandeliers (which are, incidentally, handmade and sold by Destandau's girlfriend). Then there's the colour palette; everything - and we mean everything - is stark white, from the tables, to the chairs to the reservation desk. Sleek, spotless white. It's a little disconcerting, if we're honest, but entirely effective (though we can't help but wonder what kind of cleaning regime the management must have to keep this place spick and span). Having met with Vanilla's PR team, we sat down near the long, futuristic bar to indulge in a couple of the restaurant's lipsmackingly good cocktails; highly recommended is Apple, a potent mix of Plymouth Gin, manzana verde, apple, vanilla sugar, cinnamon and lemon.

Lord knows how we made it through to the adjoining black-and-white dining room, but we eventually did. Nestled in an ultra-private booth, we were left to browse the extensive menu; made up of four-, six- and ten-course tasting options, it truly was a sight for hungry eyes. Not wanting to appear like the greedy journalists we actually are, we opted for the four-course 'Just A Taste' menu which began with a pre-dinner teaser of new potatoes cooked in an edible clay (we kid you not). It wasn't like any mud we've tasted before (!), and was served on a stylish slab of black stone with an assortment of spices that almost brought us to an embarrassing When Harry Met Sally-style climax (oh, the shame!).

Next up was the Scallops, accompanied with a Pumpkin Purée and a Black Pudding and Potato Terrine. Placed atop a slice of mouthwatering pork belly, the scallops were silky soft on the tongue and would show the chefs at Hakkasan a thing or two about how they should be cooked. After this was the Gnocchi with Black Truffle, Almonds and Salsify - a glorious mess of ingredients set inside a deep white bowl. This was followed by our main courses; one of us opting for the Venison with Red Wine, Pear Purée and Red Cabbage and the other choosing the Duck with Blueberries, Pickled Girolles and Carrot Purée. The duck was soft, tender and cooked to pink-perfection, while the venison with rich in flavour and not overly-filling.

Although we're not one for desserts, we could appreciate that the afters here are a work of culinary art and couldn't possibly pass on the experience. We chose the tantalisingly-titled Sweetcorn, which was served up with Frozen Cream, Cake and Popcorn. Everything on the plate was bursting with so much flavour that apple pie and custard is never going to cut it as a satisfying dessert ever again. The thing about Vanilla's food is the attention to detail; everything on every plate compliments or clashes with one another to create intense, concentrated flavours that dance on your tongue long after you've left. Having worked in a number of Michelin-starred restaurants prior to Vanilla, Ani clearly knew what needed to be done to turn things around - and keep them that way.

Food at Vanilla is clearly more than a way to make money; Ani blends scientific experimentation with artistic expression to create dishes that are inspiring, memorable and overwhelming. The price? £154.12 for two people, including two four-course tasting menus, a couple of cocktails each, a decent bottle of wine, service and VAT. Not bad for Central London, we're sure you'll agree. Yes, the portions aren't huge, but you're getting a few fair of them for your money. Indeed, if Gunpowder opened a restaurant we're pretty sure it would look - and taste - a whole lot like Vanilla. In fact, we'd probably be sued for copying everything down to the super-cool layout of the toilets.
www.vanillalondon.co.uk / Images: Vanilla